| 
|
|
|
|
|
Note the "REMOVE-THIS" in the contact address |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
|
| |
|
|
|
| |
|
| |
|
|
Forms |
|
|
|
Pictures |
|
- - - - - - - - - - - |
|
- - - - - - - - - - -
|
Procedures |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
- - - - - - - - - - -
|
|
 |
| Kawasaki klr KLR 650 klr650 valve
valves horn upgrade pictures procedures lift easy tips tricks adjust
check log maintenance repair motorcycle bike corbin saddle mt wash
washington fork oil tube safety switch shim shims storage table tables
torque value brace superbrace super throttle lock vista-cruise vista
cruise idler shaft lever doohickey horn wiring tuned for performance
demand driven |
This is a hobby website
dedicated to the Kawasaki KLR650 motorcycle. I make no claim
concerning the accuracy of the procedures, nor do I guarantee
the success of any work done using them. All users of the material
found here are advised that there is no real or implied warranty
associated in any way with the website content, and that all
content available here is for use at your own risk.
Copyright © 2001
Mark's KLR Pages
All Rights Reserved
No copying or
other redistribution by any method will be permitted without
my express written permission.
|
|
| RAMP LOADING
OF THE KLR |
|
I've
had a few questions concerning loading and transporting
the KLR in a truck. I've posted a few pictures here,
and included text that I hope will help out.
|
There
are numerous ways to do this, as with pretty much anything.
This will show how *I* do it, and you can take it from
there. |
|
| |
The
picture above shows the ramps set up on the
tailgate of my truck, and ready to go. I used
two 2x12 pressure treated boards for the ramps,
and to the one shown on the right, screwed two
2x4's on edge along the whole length of the
ramp. This keeps the tires from wandering off
the side. Each ramp is 6 feet long.
I
had the maintenance shop at work make the ramp
ends for me, but they are readily available
from places such as J.C. Whitney. [RAMP
ENDS] Also, you'll notice the traction
pads screwed to the surface of both ramps. These
keep the bike AND me from slipping going up
or down. These may be available elsewhere, but
I got them at J.C. Whitney. [TRACTION
PADS]
|
| |
| The
above picture shows the use of tie-down straps
to hold the ramps "into" the tailgate.
*I* think this is a very important thing, as it
prevents the ramps from kicking out or being knocked
off / sideways. I just screwed a couple heavy
eyebolts to the underside of the ramps, and ground
off what little came through the top side. |
| |
| The
picture above shows me just starting the bike up
the ramp. I just start the bike, put it into first,
and work the throttle, brake and clutch to walk
it up. |
 |
| The
picture above shows the bike almost in the bed.
This is really an easy method of loading. My shoulders
and knees aren't all that great, so this just about
the only way I could get the bike into the truck
without killing myself. |
 |
| The
picture above shows a 4x4 block set between the
Superbrace and the top of the fender. I've read
that it may be possible to strap down the front
end so much that after bouncing around for a while
in that position, the fork seals may blow. I don't
know if this is a valid concern or not, but using
the block couldn't hurt. I have stock springs, with
the fork tubes mounted flush with the top of the
clamps - for me, 8" was the right length for
this block. |
 |
| The
bike is loaded, and the tailgate is up. This truck
has a 6' box, so I just kick the back end of the
bike around, making it corner to corner. The tailgate
shuts with a little room to spare. I'll use motorcycle
tie-downs to all four corners, throw in the ramps
and cable lock them to the eyebolts of the truck. |
|
|
|
|