SAFETY SWITCH BYPASS:
picture above shows the wiring connector for the clutch
safety switch. The connector and jumped wires are circled
in red, the blue arrow points to the body of the connector.
The wiring connector for the
clutch safety switch is located behind a black protective
box located under the instrument cluster behind the fairing.
There are three wires wrapped in black tape running from
the clutch switch to the connector, which fits in a mass
connector plate to the left (shifter) side of all the others.
The connector body is white.
Unplug the connector from either
side of the plate, and pull the two ends out into the open.
There are two striped wires, and one solid wire that continue
on to the main wiring harness.
I used a very fine bladed screwdriver
to reach up into the connectors and release the tabs that
was holding the "spades" in place. Do this for
the STRIPED WIRES, as
these are the ones that need to be jumped for the circuit
I used tiny female spades, (available
at the dealer), and made a jumper using 14 gauge wire, as
shown in the picture above. Put a dab of di-electric grease
(silicone) on everything. I left the solid wire in the connector
body, and set it back up in the connector plate. I used
heatshrink tubing on the jumpered striped wires, and wrapped
them in black 3M electrical tape, securing them to the rest
of the wires.
Now, check to see that the neutral
light works, and that the bike will start with the clutch
lever out and the KLR in neutral.
Button things up, and move on
to the next step, if you wish. You can do one or both of
these bypasses - but you don't have to do both for either
one to work. There are circumstances that the sidestand
bypass would be a good thing, but the clutch - IMHO - is
the more "important" of the two because the safety
switch WILL eventually fail.