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| Kawasaki klr KLR 650 klr650 valve
valves horn upgrade pictures procedures lift easy tips tricks adjust
check log maintenance repair motorcycle bike corbin saddle mt wash
washington fork oil tube safety switch shim shims storage table tables
torque value brace superbrace super throttle lock vista-cruise vista
cruise idler shaft lever doohickey horn wiring tuned for performance
demand driven |
This
is a hobby website dedicated to the Kawasaki KLR650 motorcycle.
I make no claim concerning the accuracy of the procedures, nor
do I guarantee the success of any work done using them. All users
of the material found here are advised that there is no real or
implied warranty associated in any way with the website content,
and that all content available here is for use at your own risk.
Copyright © 2001
Mark's KLR Pages
All Rights Reserved
No copying or other
redistribution by any method will be permitted without my express
written permission. |
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| VISTA-CRUISE
THROTTLE LOCK INSTALLATION |
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This is a relatively straight-forward
procedure, but can be difficult to visualize if you've never seen
or used a throttle lock. With the following pictures and accompanying
text installation should be easily accomplished in 1/2 hour or
less.
This throttle lock is a great
thing for long distance traveling, and although you can over-ride
it by just twisting the grip with extra force when it's engaged,
it definitely should NOT be used in traffic.
The lock is available from Fred Hink at Arrowhead
Motorsports: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com
under KLR / Control. The part # is 12-7130. |
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| The diagram above is of the throttle lock, taken
from the back of the package. |
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| Installing Vista-Cruise with Acerbis guards - From Stu
Mumford: |
I installed the VC on the
plastic, sandwiched between the end of the grip and the end
of the plastic throttle tube. To prevent the VC from spinning,
I drilled a tiny hole in the throttle cable housing, inserted
a small self tapping sheet metal screw to secure the "feet"
on the stationary part of the VC to the throttle cable housing.
After rotating the throttle through its full range several
times to make sure that there was no binding on the throttle
cables, I put a dab of silicone on the screw to make the whole
installation weather and dirt-proof. Works perfect.
I run Renthal Desert Bends, Pro-Grip gel grips, Acerbis Rally
Pro handguards, and the Universal Vista Cruise. |
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| The picture above shows the start
of the throttle lock installation. The throttle lock goes
at the far left of the throttle sleeve, right up against the
flange, slotted tab facing toward the kill switch - (location
shown by the YELLOW arrow.) The grip was removed because the
original installation was badly done, and needed to be re-glued,
and may not be necessary. The throttle lock can be taken apart
by unscrewing the cylindrical brass "nut" with the
key included with the throttle lock, and slipped over the
throttle sleeve if you want to try installation with the grip
still in place. The RED arrow shows the location of the retaining
screw, discussed later on. |
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| The picture above shows that the
throttle lock is assembled on the throttle sleeve, with the
RED arrow pointing to the anti-friction washer. It is very
important that this be installed as it provides a free moving
surface between the throttle lock and the rubber grip - otherwise
the throttle action would be "sticky." |
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| The picture above shows the throttle lock installed,
with the grip back in place. The RED arrow points to the lock
retaining stud. You have a couple choices here: you can drill
a small hole in the bottom of the throttle cable housing,
and install a small screw to hold the tab of the throttle
lock in place. The alternative - shown above - is to mark
the location where the retaining stud should go, and remove
the bottom of the throttle cable housing. Drill a hole, and
install a small bolt with the head inside the housing. Thread
on a nut from the outside to hold the bolt in place, move
the throttle lock tab into place, and install a washer/nut
to secure the tab. NOTE: The
head of the bolt must be very thin, or ground down so as to
not interfere with the operation of the throttle cables in
the housing. This is also true of a screw used from the outside
- don't screw it in too far. Be sure
to test throttle lock positioning before you drill the hole! |
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| Thanks
to Dan, motorcycle_dan@yahoo.com,
for the above photos. Here's what he had to say:
I didn't think the lever stuck over far enough over
the throttle housing. I used a small scrap of heavy gage
stainless sheet metal. Drilled one hole so a 6-32 screw
would fit loose then tapped a 6-32 hole into the throttle
housing.
Then used an 8-32 screw to connect the vista cruise to the
little sheet metal tab. I drilled and tapped the 8-32
hole into the sheet metal with a self tapping screw.
Self-tapping screw was WAY too long. After running
it through the sheet metal a few time and sure that threads
were cut properly, I shortened the screw with crimping pliers
(so that's what them are for) If you can squeeze and break
this bolt I do not want to offend you. You gotta be
a purty big feller and the last thing I'd want to do is
offend you....
If you are
like everyone else. Screw the screw in to the depth
you want. Lay the crimping pliers on something solid.
Whack the snot outta it with a heavy hammer. Hopefully one
HARD blow will shear it off. If you installed it from
the correct side, as you back out the screw it will straighten
any thread that may have been damaged in the break off process.
Why a 6-32 and an 8-32 screw? That is what fell out
of my junk screw bin first. Probably could have used
both 8-32. My thought was if the 6-32 into the aluminum
housing eventually stripped, I could enlarge it to 8-32.
Note my choice of grips. Johar superbike grips.
They are oversized foam, I find VERY comfortable and at
the outraegous price of nearly $6 a pair, well most of my
bikes have them... They are just a snad too long but
a single edge razor trimmed the end and just perfect.
I use Black RTV to install and glue grips. Force them
onto the bar or throttle pipe about an inch. Stick
the end of the RTV tube under the grip and squirt a little.
Push on the rest of the way and don't ride for 24 hours.
Left side grip must have the long rubber put on the bar.
I cut off the open end for bar end weights. I have
Emgo bar end weights and have cut the end off the throttle
pipe. My plan is to put some sand or shot inside the
bar to hopefully reduce mirror vibration.
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| The final step is to fine-tune
the installation. Tighten the brass adjustment "nut"
until the thumb lever is snug (not tight) against the face
of the crown. Turn the grip about 1/4 turn and depress the
thumb lever to the ON position, and release the grip. If the
lock fails to hold the grip in the set position, tighten by
1/4 turn increments until the lock holds the throttle setting.
It's important to not over-tighten! Check
the Vista-Cruise in the OFF, or UP postion of the thumb
lever. You should be able to twist to fully open throttle,
and have it spring back to closed when the grip is released.
If this does not happen, loosen the adjuster, and/or check
for binding between the lock and rubber flange of the hand
grip. |
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| The picture above shows the throttle
lock fully installed, and ready to use. The RED arrow is pointing
to the retaining stud, which is just forward of the center
of the bottom of the throttle cable housing. The thumb lever
with horizontal lines on it, is just above the red arrow.
The throttle lock is shown in the inactive position. Open
the throttle to whatever position/speed you want, and push
the thumb lever down to lock the throttle at that speed. |
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| NOTE: This is NOT cruise
control. The bike will slow down going up hills, and speed
up going down them. It works best on flat ground. |
| NOTE: The grips shown
are the Pro Gel Grips, also available from Fred Hink at http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com
These grips are a huge improvement over stock,
and greatly increase hand comfort. |
| The yellow O-Ring is CAT part # 8M4991,
and was intended as a poor mans throttle lock. Unless you
have superman fingers, or bar ends, this is NOT the way to
go! |
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